Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships

[Mundy]

The Yorktown thread discussing every detail is here.

Model Warships

It's been a while since I read too deeply, but I think the feeling was she added some extra 20mm guns while keeping all the .50 she had on board.

Here's what the hull looked like before TOMLABEL's sanding job. It is a bit overdone.

[wdolson]

I think it would be easier to use filler than sand down all that detail. Trumpeter/Hobby Boss/Merit has a history of adding tons of detail to their kits as well as using the cutting edge mold making techniques, but getting critical details wrong. Aircraft model reviews are extremely critical of releases from these companies.

And on a tangent, I came across this several years ago, it's a good laugh:

http://www.modelwarships.com/features/rambling/rambling04.htm

[Mundy]

That's funny. I used to be all airplanes, all the time. The USAF part of me screaming to get out.

I've always had a draw towards naval history, and it's only in the last few years that it's shown in my model building. I was in a plane kick for awhile, but then I discovered Warhammer 40,000 and did nothing but that for 8 years. I did learn a lot about painting, which I'm retro-applying to regular scale stuff.

There was talk of using plastic strip to fill the down parts. The downside is having to replicate all the portholes in the hull.

Like I said, I'll probably go a bit heavier on the primer and hope it smooths things out a bit.

For forums, I'm Zad Fnark everywhere else. I was having an identity crisis when I first registered here 13 years ago.

[TOMLABEL]

ORIGINAL: Mundy


I'm not sure I can be that ambitious with mine.  Maybe I can tone it down a bit without purging it completely.

I was thinking the same thing at first because it is very heavily overdone in some places. Honestly, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. If you spread it out over several days like a week, it won't be as difficult as it seems.

ORIGINAL: Mundy
I'm torn between a Coral Sea and a Midway version. 

I'm choosing to go with the Midway scheme.

ORIGINAL: Mundy
A Measure 12 Graded scheme would stand out nicely against all the 21s I seem to be filling my cabinet with. 

Agreed!!! MS12 is a nice change. The other schemes like MS21 and MS12 Mod paint schemes seem to hide a lot of detail that I work so hard on to show.

ORIGINAL: Mundy
I'm not sure if I'll Pontos it or not.  Those sets usually run more than the kits themselves.

I know the feeling!!! I usually don't go the Pontos route opting for GGM or WE works, but I've waited for this kit my whole life! Saving up money each pay period as the Pontos folks are still working on this set with no release date announced as yet.

ORIGINAL: wdolson

I think it would be easier to use filler than sand down all that detail.

Not so sure on this hull Bill!!! The plates are heavily molded in my opinion. It would take a lot of filler. Maybe a combo as Mundy has suggested would work.

In my case, I took a deep breath and decided to do it even if it meant I was going to destroy the $$$ kit and would have to somehow purchase another. Thankfully, it wasn't as difficult as I thought. Just got to be careful around the hawsepipes, hanger deck catapult extension braces, shaft exits, etc.

ORIGINAL: wdolson

I'm not 100% sure, but I think while the Yorktown was under repair after Coral Sea some AA was added.

Bill

I think I recall that the portside 20mms were already present at Coral Sea. Buckmaster had the choice to have the starboard 20mms that were planned installed starboard while at PH before Midway, but declined because he didn't have time to train the crew on a new weapon and ammo handling in just 3 days.

It is also true that the 50 cals that the port 20mms replaced were retained secretly onboard and used in new locations, but were taken down/hidden while in port so they would not have to turn them over as required.

TOMLABEL

[HansBolter]

You guys are worlds above me on skill level. I built the DE England stock out of the box using the stock photo etch.

I've not yet purchased a Dragon ship kit, but I have about a dozen Dragon tank kits and frankly the detail level and photo etch are bit intimidating to me.

I have been focusing on building my lesser detailed, simpler kits like the Tamiya and Italeri. I have well over 100 kits in my stash and have curtailed purchasing new ones until I put a dent in the current inventory.

Appreciate very much you guys sharing your passion for the hobby.

[Mundy]

I have one of the "hold and fold" tool sets for the photo-etch.  Basically, it's something to clamp down on the etch (several sizes of holders) while using a razor blade to make the fold.  They let you work with very small pieces.  I move them around with ye olde toothpick usually.  I can crank out very small pieces fairly quickly with this.  I use a rounded scalpel type blade to remove the etch piece, which works fairly quickly and cleanly, rocking the blade across and removing any stub left.
 
Pretty much what pushed me over the edge with the York purchase was the included photo-etch.  It's probably a little heavier that what an aftermarket set would look like.
 
Tomlabel, that's what I remember reading, too.  Before I start, I'll probably re-read that thread from start to finish.
 
I learned a lot about highlighting with drybrushing from my Warhammer stuff.  You can pop out detail on a MS.21 scheme by doing it right.  You can see it a bit on my Benson pics -- especially on the gun tubs.  I think I used more of a medium gray to do it.
 
Do you know if there were shields on the starboard .50?

[HansBolter]

ORIGINAL: Mundy

I have one of the "hold and fold" tool sets for the photo-etch.  Basically, it's something to clamp down on the etch (several sizes of holders) while using a razor blade to make the fold.  They let you work with very small pieces.  I move them around with ye olde toothpick usually.  I can crank out very small pieces fairly quickly with this.  I use a rounded scalpel type blade to remove the etch piece, which works fairly quickly and cleanly, rocking the blade across and removing any stub left.

Pretty much what pushed me over the edge with the York purchase was the included photo-etch.  It's probably a little heavier that what an aftermarket set would look like.

Tomlabel, that's what I remember reading, too.  Before I start, I'll probably re-read that thread from start to finish.

I learned a lot about highlighting with drybrushing from my Warhammer stuff.  You can pop out detail on a MS.21 scheme by doing it right.  You can see it a bit on my Benson pics -- especially on the gun tubs.  I think I used more of a medium gray to do it.

Do you know if there were shields on the starboard .50?

Yea, I bought what is called the Bug from The Small Shop. It's a mini version of an Etchmate.

It came with the mini metal brake, the square of gloss black plexi as a cutting base and a clear plexi post and base tool that you sue to hold down the fret on the cutting base while cutting the attachment tab.

These items can se seem in the lower left corner of my desk photo with a silver pho etch fret from the I-400 on it.

The kit also came with an aluminum block with various diameter curved grooves in it and wood dowels with corresponding diameters for bending sheet pieces in curves.

It's a very nice tool kit but the Bug is very tiny and I can already see the need to acquire an Etchmate for larger pieces.

I like your method of using a curved blade and rocking it. I'm going to give that a try. I've been using a flat blade and punching downward with it with not so great results.

[Mundy]

That is a nice one.  Probably the only downside is dealing with really long pieces to fold.
 
Rocking the curved blade does work slick without deforming anything.  I've been able to shave off very small stubs doing this.
 
Looks like the .50 didn't have shields.

[pontiouspilot]

Keep up the thread...there are those of us that derive great vicarious enjoyment!!

[TOMLABEL]

ORIGINAL: wdolson
I'm not 100% sure, but I think while the Yorktown was under repair after Coral Sea some AA was added.
Bill

I'm not sure when these 20mm's were added, but I think before Coral Sea. Mundy may have more info on this.
(see the black arrows)

ORIGINAL: HansBolter

Yea, I bought what is called the Bug from The Small Shop. It's a mini version of an Etchmate.

Hans, I have the Etchmate and in combination with the Bug, that might be all you need. I have another device (I can't remember the name of it) that has shapes for making curves, but it seems like the Bug may do this as well.

I can emphasize with you as PE parts really intimidate me!! Sometimes I wish they would have never invented it!!![:D]

[wdolson]

Blame model railroaders. PE existed there almost a decade before they started coming along for plastic models.

Bill

[bomccarthy]

ORIGINAL: wdolson

Blame model railroaders. PE existed there almost a decade before they started coming along for plastic models.

Bill

And yet model railroad kits that you can construct are almost extinct now.

Although an aerospace engineer, my dad's first love has always been trains. Growing up, we watched TV to the smell of Ambroid glue, as he built his kits in our TV room (the garage smelled of Floquil paints and Dysol solvent). Two of my brothers followed him into model railroading, while I fell in love with the aerodynamic beauty of airplanes. However, over the years I noticed that he built fewer kits and instead bought ready-made models. I asked him why he didn't build the kits anymore and he said that they are impossible to find. My brothers confirmed that the old kit manufacturers, like Athearn, primarily sell ready-made models today. They're just as accurate and detailed as the old kits you put together and you can add more details if you wish, but my dad and brothers now spend most of their time tinkering with the electrics on the locomotive models.

[Mundy]

I think I've wrapped up CVL-22. It just sorta creeps up on you.

I guess this isn't the best lighting. I'll have to get some better pics later.

[HansBolter]

ORIGINAL: bomccarthy

ORIGINAL: wdolson

Blame model railroaders. PE existed there almost a decade before they started coming along for plastic models.

Bill

And yet model railroad kits that you can construct are almost extinct now.

Although an aerospace engineer, my dad's first love has always been trains. Growing up, we watched TV to the smell of Ambroid glue, as he built his kits in our TV room (the garage smelled of Floquil paints and Dysol solvent). Two of my brothers followed him into model railroading, while I fell in love with the aerodynamic beauty of airplanes. However, over the years I noticed that he built fewer kits and instead bought ready-made models. I asked him why he didn't build the kits anymore and he said that they are impossible to find. My brothers confirmed that the old kit manufacturers, like Athearn, primarily sell ready-made models today. They're just as accurate and detailed as the old kits you put together and you can add more details if you wish, but my dad and brothers now spend most of their time tinkering with the electrics on the locomotive models.

Depends on if you are talking about kits that make functional trains or just display models.

I have built several small scale Karls and my former employer built a 1/35 Dora.

[wdolson]

ORIGINAL: wdolson

Blame model railroaders. PE existed there almost a decade before they started coming along for plastic models.

Bill

ORIGINAL: bomccarthy
And yet model railroad kits that you can construct are almost extinct now.

Although an aerospace engineer, my dad's first love has always been trains. Growing up, we watched TV to the smell of Ambroid glue, as he built his kits in our TV room (the garage smelled of Floquil paints and Dysol solvent). Two of my brothers followed him into model railroading, while I fell in love with the aerodynamic beauty of airplanes. However, over the years I noticed that he built fewer kits and instead bought ready-made models. I asked him why he didn't build the kits anymore and he said that they are impossible to find. My brothers confirmed that the old kit manufacturers, like Athearn, primarily sell ready-made models today. They're just as accurate and detailed as the old kits you put together and you can add more details if you wish, but my dad and brothers now spend most of their time tinkering with the electrics on the locomotive models.

My father got into model railroading in the 50s. He built some brass locomotives that had to be soldered together. I don't know if they still are available, but back when I was a bit interested in the 80s there were a lot of detail aftermarket sets available for people who wanted to dress up their ready to run cars and engines. The parts were usually etched brass or lost wax brass castings. I believe the guy who pioneered the photo etch products was someone who made electronics printed circuit boards for a living.

Bill

[bomccarthy]

ORIGINAL: wdolson

ORIGINAL: wdolson

Blame model railroaders. PE existed there almost a decade before they started coming along for plastic models.

Bill

ORIGINAL: bomccarthy
And yet model railroad kits that you can construct are almost extinct now.

Although an aerospace engineer, my dad's first love has always been trains. Growing up, we watched TV to the smell of Ambroid glue, as he built his kits in our TV room (the garage smelled of Floquil paints and Dysol solvent). Two of my brothers followed him into model railroading, while I fell in love with the aerodynamic beauty of airplanes. However, over the years I noticed that he built fewer kits and instead bought ready-made models. I asked him why he didn't build the kits anymore and he said that they are impossible to find. My brothers confirmed that the old kit manufacturers, like Athearn, primarily sell ready-made models today. They're just as accurate and detailed as the old kits you put together and you can add more details if you wish, but my dad and brothers now spend most of their time tinkering with the electrics on the locomotive models.

My father got into model railroading in the 50s. He built some brass locomotives that had to be soldered together. I don't know if they still are available, but back when I was a bit interested in the 80s there were a lot of detail aftermarket sets available for people who wanted to dress up their ready to run cars and engines. The parts were usually etched brass or lost wax brass castings. I believe the guy who pioneered the photo etch products was someone who made electronics printed circuit boards for a living.

Bill

I think brass locomotives are still around, except I believe their prices are approaching $1,000. My Dad's brass locomotives were like his second set of children -- the rest of us could look, but not touch. He even bought a brass bar in the '70s and machined his own add-on details for the locomotives.

[bomccarthy]

ORIGINAL: HansBolter

ORIGINAL: bomccarthy

ORIGINAL: wdolson

Blame model railroaders. PE existed there almost a decade before they started coming along for plastic models.

Bill

And yet model railroad kits that you can construct are almost extinct now.

Although an aerospace engineer, my dad's first love has always been trains. Growing up, we watched TV to the smell of Ambroid glue, as he built his kits in our TV room (the garage smelled of Floquil paints and Dysol solvent). Two of my brothers followed him into model railroading, while I fell in love with the aerodynamic beauty of airplanes. However, over the years I noticed that he built fewer kits and instead bought ready-made models. I asked him why he didn't build the kits anymore and he said that they are impossible to find. My brothers confirmed that the old kit manufacturers, like Athearn, primarily sell ready-made models today. They're just as accurate and detailed as the old kits you put together and you can add more details if you wish, but my dad and brothers now spend most of their time tinkering with the electrics on the locomotive models.

Depends on if you are talking about kits that make functional trains or just display models.

I have built several small scale Karls and my former employer built a 1/35 Dora.

I don't think I ever saw the pure display trains, except the military subjects. All of the hobby magazines in our house dealt with HO or N scale layouts. We had a three-car garage, but only two cars could fit - the rest was devoted to a rather large HO layout based on a Rockies or Sierras scene. Eventually, he added an extension over the hood of his car that could be elevated with pulleys. It was never intended to be completed, but at 83, my Dad no longer has the stamina to work on it more than an hour or two each day. I think he now spends more time trying to mentally reconcile all of the characters in Song of Ice and Fire with their screen counterparts (he read the entire series on Kindle in less than 5 weeks).

[HansBolter]

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=1%2 ... &FORM=IGRE

Images of the 1/35th Dora.

There is even a picture of a guy standing beside his scratch built 1/6th Dora.

[bomccarthy]

To get back to ships, does anyone have examples of 1/700 ships that they haven't thoroughly painted, just performed a wash to bring out details? I got back into building airplanes a few years ago, but now live in a small condo complex where I can't airbrush without disturbing my neighbors. To my eye, brush-painted planes just don't look right (unless you're depicting the Spitfires delivered by the Wasp to Malta -- they were apparently painted blue by Wasp crew members using floor brooms). But a 1/700 scale subject would seem to be small enough, when viewed from a normal distance, to look "right" without every little item painted, just highlighted for contrast. Just want to get some opinions before spending bucks on a ship then hating how it looked when completed.

[wdolson]

ORIGINAL: bomccarthy

I think brass locomotives are still around, except I believe their prices are approaching $1,000. My Dad's brass locomotives were like his second set of children -- the rest of us could look, but not touch. He even bought a brass bar in the '70s and machined his own add-on details for the locomotives.

They must be more than that. Back when I was in high school in the 80s the RMRA convention came to Pasadena, CA which was very close to home, so my father and I went. On the last day they had a business meeting and as an incentive they gave out door prizes. Everyone got two tickets and doing a mental calculation of what was on the table, there were almost 2 prizes per person, though most of the items were dreck. The two grand prizes were a brass Pensy locomotive in HO and a brass switcher engine in G scale.

As they went through the prizes, I was the only person in the room not winning anything, when the grand prizes came around, I was the only person left with two tickets. I won the Pensy locomotive and missed winning the other one by one digit. When we checked what the Pensy locomotive was worth, it was around $800 then. Something similar would have to be worth a lot more than that now. That was 30 years ago.

My father pinched the locomotive. I haven't seen it in 20 years. He has his layout he built in a spare room upstairs, but he doesn't do much with it anymore. He said he'd like to, but his sense of touch in his fingertips isn't that great anymore. He can feel things in a gross way so he doesn't injure himself in the kitchen, but the fine touch needed for modeling isn't there anymore. He is 95 and in good health for his age, so you can only expect so much.

I think he's also a bit depressed, not major though. He now lives alone in a large house now that my mother died. She had a terrible end with multiple health problems and needed a lot of attention at the end just to do the basics. It was a long drawn out drama that lasted 3-4 years of the worst and about 13 total since she started losing her sight. He is very active socially, but always comes home to an empty house and this is the first time in his life he's ever lived completely alone.

Bill