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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships

 
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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/13/2013 4:06:42 AM   
Lokasenna


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From: Iowan in MD/DC
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quote:

ORIGINAL: wdolson

I don't know what you did to get that color, but at least to me it looks like the brown for the deck is too thin and the gray plastic is showing through.

One thing aircraft modelers do is color the recessed panel lines with a dark color, sometimes black, before painting the camo colors. After painting the dark shows through the paint a bit and highlights the panel lines. IMO some people over do it, but very visible panel lines are the fashion these days.

I would think a similar technique would work on a ship's deck. I would try it with a dark brown pen, then paint over it with a lighter brown. The darker lines will show through the top coat a bit and you should get some contrast on your deck. I'm not 100% sure it will work, but it might be worth a try.

Bill



Try using what's called an ink, or a wash. You can salvage (insofar as it needs salvaging*) the deck fairly easily. Basically, an ink or wash is a very runny paint but with powerful coloring effect to it. It will sink into the recesses of the plastic. Some will be left on top, which is why after inking this you should either use a technique called drybrushing or highlighting.

To do that, just dab your brush in the paint pot as usual, then wipe anywhere from about half to 80% of the paint off onto a paper towel (this is so that you can be sure to only get the areas you wish to highlight). Then lightly brush this on top of the area you wish highlighted. I've found that while it may take some time to do so, brushing at a 90' angle to the ridge you wish to highlight is best.

This works best with water color paints. If you are using enamel, I've forgotten most of what I learned as a young lad due to the more difficult logistics involved with enamel paints.

Source: 15 or so years of miniature & wargames painting

Bill's method is also a good idea, but one that I think would be best when starting from completely unpainted plastic.

*Don't get me wrong, it's not terrible... And really, it's your model. You're the ultimate judge on how it should look.

< Message edited by Lokasenna -- 2/13/2013 4:07:17 AM >

(in reply to wdolson)
Post #: 31
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/13/2013 6:00:04 AM   
U2


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quote:

ORIGINAL: SqzMyLemon

quote:

ORIGINAL: wdolson
I would think a similar technique would work on a ship's deck. I would try it with a dark brown pen, then paint over it with a lighter brown. The darker lines will show through the top coat a bit and you should get some contrast on your deck. I'm not 100% sure it will work, but it might be worth a try.

Bill


I'm not sure on Japanese destroyers, but battleships and cruisers used brass strips to secure the linoleum decks. The raised lines running across your deck represent those strips I believe. Something you might want to try. Also, Tamiya has a paint available specifically for Japanese linoleum decks. Just some more info for you U2.


Thanks guys,

the raised lines running across are indeed those strips. at this tiny scale airbushing that would be impossible to do. I've seen others not paint them and I did the same. I've seen it done in 1/350 though and I might give it a shot in 1/700 with my next build.

Now to the brown deck. Yes, I have that Tamiya color and I airbrushed it with that color. The hing however is that I cut corners masking the deck. I first painted the deck and then had to mask it when I wanted to airbrush other parts of the deck with an IJN grey. Instead of using masking tape I wanted to save time and used a Vallejo masking liquid. I did not cover 100% so I have tiny spots of grey over my linoleumm deck. I can't airbrush that over due to the spots being in difficult places riskingpainting over parts that were suppose to be grey. Remember this scale is tiny. I decided to haind paint over the grey pots with the linoleum color. This is not a good idea since airbrushing and handpainting the same Tamiya color is uite different and does not produce the same result. The hand painted over grey spots became much draker than the rest of the airbushed linoleum deck. I tried to cover that up by weathering the deck. So it's not actually grey shoing through. It's weathered

Taking a photo at night with a flash might not show what I am seeing. It's not perfect but I tried to cut corners and was punished for it. I will continue even thoguh I am not happy since I will learn from my mistakes.

Thanks for you input guys.

< Message edited by U2 -- 2/13/2013 6:01:45 AM >

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Post #: 32
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/13/2013 6:01:31 AM   
U2


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From: Västerås,Sweden
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édited

< Message edited by U2 -- 2/13/2013 6:02:06 AM >

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Post #: 33
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/13/2013 3:39:34 PM   
Lokasenna


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From: Iowan in MD/DC
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quote:

ORIGINAL: U2
Taking a photo at night with a flash might not show what I am seeing.


I was wondering if maybe some of the effect we see in that photo wasn't from a flash. Keep plugging away, I'd love to see a picture when it's finished.


Back towards the OT somewhat, I've got maybe 8 or a dozen 1/700 ships built. I got started when I found my uncle's model of the Bismarck from the 1960s. My mother said he liked to put firecrackers in them and blow them up out in the gutter after it rained . That's the only one that survived him.

So before I started wargaming, I built models. I have the Iowa (disclaimer: I'm from there! The state capitol building has a pretty wicked scale model of it about 10 feet long, I wish they also had one of the Des Moines), Massachusetts, Yorktown (CV-5), Suzuya (I've always loved the IJN CA designs, not to mention they were extremely potent ships), Jintsu, a generic Gato-class (I pretend it's Wahoo), and I believe either a Fletcher or Akizuki - I just remember that I have a DD model.

If I could think of a way to properly display them (maybe I'll make a glass-topped coffee table depicting a battle in Ironbottom Sound?!), I'd bring them out of storage and paint them up.

(in reply to U2)
Post #: 34
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/13/2013 4:37:04 PM   
Mundy


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From: Neenah
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A good curio cabinet would work.  One of the first things I bought after we got our house.

Ed-

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Post #: 35
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/18/2013 8:40:29 PM   
U2


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Latest update. The hull completely weathered and decals applied. Again I made some mistakes that I will not redo but one must continue to learn from them. I do realise that this angle does not show the weathering that much.






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Post #: 36
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/18/2013 11:22:35 PM   
wdolson

 

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Nice work.

I was just thinking that you might be able to save the deck paint job with some dry brushed black. Don't do much, just a very light dusting of black will make the deck look a bit grungier and help distract the eye from the gray over spray. I haven't done it with ship models, but I've done it with aircraft interiors and it can help cover up a multitude of mistakes.

The whole idea of weathering models may have started by somebody who made a painting mistake and wanted to cover it up. That's why I weathered my first model.

Bill

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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/22/2013 10:19:47 AM   
wdolson

 

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I've been very lucky on Ebay over the last week. First I came across a 3 kit deal that included a 1/700 Nimitz for a song, then I found a deal on 107 1/700 kits for a great price. There are some duplicates with what I already have in that collection, but I can sell the ones I don't want.

I don't normally go for post WWII subjects, but an idea hit me about the Nimitz. I can build it as a what if from the Final Countdown. Paint it in 1942 colors and the planes in 1942 colors.

The first thing that struck me was how huge the Nimitz is. The picture included is the Musashi hull next to the Nimitz.

Bill




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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/22/2013 10:20:42 AM   
wdolson

 

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Here they are again with the deck sitting on top of the Nimitz hull.

Bill




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Post #: 39
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/23/2013 3:37:11 AM   
PaxMondo


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CVN's are BIG.

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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/23/2013 4:29:06 AM   
John 3rd


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From: La Salle, Colorado
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quote:

ORIGINAL: wdolson

I've been very lucky on Ebay over the last week. First I came across a 3 kit deal that included a 1/700 Nimitz for a song, then I found a deal on 107 1/700 kits for a great price. There are some duplicates with what I already have in that collection, but I can sell the ones I don't want.

I don't normally go for post WWII subjects, but an idea hit me about the Nimitz. I can build it as a what if from the Final Countdown. Paint it in 1942 colors and the planes in 1942 colors.

The first thing that struck me was how huge the Nimitz is. The picture included is the Musashi hull next to the Nimitz.

Bill





My boys and I are starting to do 1/700 models. Could you email me your duplicates and we can talk price? THANKS!


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Post #: 41
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/23/2013 10:21:18 PM   
nashvillen


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You guys got me inspired to continue on my KB. Here is the flight deck of the Shokaku with some Kates on board. Please note that the Kates don't have their insignias or been flat coated yet, so they are a little shiny. What I am happy with is how the flight deck is looking.



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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/24/2013 12:09:37 AM   
wdolson

 

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Did the landing gear break on one of those? It looks like it bellied in.

Looking good.

Bill

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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/24/2013 1:03:08 AM   
nashvillen


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Molding issue, one didn't have the landing gear set and one only had one. I will modified them with some etched brass landing gear before using them on the model.

Thanks for the compliment.

I just finished putting the base coat on the rest of the 202 early war Kates, Vals, and Zeros I have to put on all six carriers. Not that I have figured out how to do the wood decks on the CVs. I need to get the Kirishima, Chikuma, Tone, Abukuma, Urakaze, Isokaze, Tanikaze, Hamakaze, Shiranuhi, Arare, and Kasumi. I have the Hiei and the Kagero.

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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/24/2013 1:33:09 AM   
Mundy


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My project, the Dragon 1/350 USS Benson. It's boxed as the 1945 version. The boxcover shows what's probably a Measure 31, but I wanted to do her in a 21 or 22. When she transferred to the Pacific, she was repainted in such. I'll probably do MS 21, due to my natural dislike of Haze Gray, though I do like MS 22. With what's in the box, I can probably make her correct for either version. They did a Gleaves class by swapping round stacks for the squared off ones.

This kit's good enough, where I'm not really going to replace any of the weapons included. I got a photo-etch set to supplement the one with the kit.

Ed-





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RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/25/2013 2:51:47 AM   
CarnageINC


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quote:

ORIGINAL: nashvillen

You guys got me inspired to continue on my KB. Here is the flight deck of the Shokaku with some Kates on board. Please note that the Kates don't have their insignias or been flat coated yet, so they are a little shiny. What I am happy with is how the flight deck is looking.




Your doing KB! Do tell what all you have in the way of ships I love ship models, but for some reason or another never got into building them as a kid and now don't have the time or space.

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Post #: 46
RE: Building 1/700 - 1/350 ships - 2/25/2013 3:02:39 AM   
nashvillen


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Thank you very much.

I have all three divisions. That is the Soyru in the back. I am using them to experiment with. My plan is to build the whole KB on 7 DEC 41. The biggest issue is making them match what they were in 1941. It is involving some some modifications...

I will post more pictures as I progress. I have been painting a lot of aircraft this weekend. Still have cowlings and cockpits to do along with decals.

There is some touch up to do as you can see in the above picture from over painting, but I wasn't trying to be neat in making the effect of the wood decking.

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